I was recently at a bike show. They told me their secret to keeping their bikes clean and shining ... HONDA polish and cleaner spray. Two groups of guys were cleaning their rods with the spray but the can was duct-taped so you couldn't tell what they were using! Spray cleans whitewalls, all metals, windshield. Spray on, wipe off, then wipe again with dry clean cloth. Only $6 a can. I no longer wax (old fashion way) the bike and she stays clean!

Sponges are cheap, cheap. Paint jobs aren't and when you get a really ugly scratch from an unknown piece of grit in a sponge, you'll want to cry.

Try a dab of dishwashing liquid on the inside surface of your helmet visor. Rub well, until clear, it reduces fogging.

Avon Skin-So-Soft, any kind, even the spray-on body lotions will take off chain overspray faster than anything. DO TAKE CARE NOT TO SPRAY ON ANY PAINT. Instead, spray a clean rag, then get to work on the spokes, chain guard and under the rear fender.

WD-40 is a true miracle spray. Spray a clean rag with it, then wipe down the front of your bike, the headlights, leading edges of the handlebars, etc. Bugs won't stick at all. I've found WD-40 better than wax on headlights and metal.
DON'T USE WD-40 ON PAINT as a protectant. Remember: Wax on paint, WD-40 on metal or glass only. 

Can't find any Avon products? Try a citrus based spray cleaner to get the chain gunk off. Again, don't spray the bike part, spray the rag instead.

Oven cleaner gets rid of boot marks on chrome exhaust pipes quite quickly. Be careful NOT to get any of the oven cleaner on any paint. You may want to mask off any painted surfaces with cardboard to ensure that the oven cleaner stays on the pipes. While wearing rubber gloves, saturate a rag with oven cleaner. Apply rag to exhaust pipe(s). Let sit for 10 minutes or so. Using a wooden spatula, gently scrape the gunk off. Repeat as necessary, finishing with a clear water rinse, and the wax of your choice.

Avon bubble bath is a good choice to use when cleaning your textile gear. Add a capful to a sinkful of hot water. To remove bug residue, saturate a rag with the solution, wring gently, then wipe the textile item. It removes bugs, grime around the wrist areas, and when used inside the textile item, it removes sweat and odors.

Have a leather jacket that's getting funky inside? Try Fabreeze. Spray lightly, hang the item so it's open. Let dry. Works like a charm!

Zippers being difficult? Try wiping a small dab of wax up and down the teeth.

Do your boot eyes tear up your laces? Find the culprit, and coat it with clear nail polish. Reapply as necessary.

If you have leather garments, instead of mink oil or other treatments, use lard instead. Smear the lard on with a clean rag, work it in to the seams, especially. Crank the oven up to about 300 degrees, and hang the item in front of the open oven door on a chair back or the like. A fireplace, even furnace vents work, but an open oven door is best. This works on any leather, saddlebags, chaps, jackets and gloves. The lard on leather WORKS, if done correctly. The secret is to use the lard heavily, let it melt and be absorbed into the leather and stitching, then buff off any excess. Yes, globs of lard will become rancid, but if it's allowed to be absorbed into the leather, it's one of the very best leather conditioners available. 

Many commercial products contain alcohol, which dries the leather. Some products contain silicone, which IMHO is just as damaging. Once you use silicone on anything, you have to keep using it, or it will dry out worse than before the initial application. Many commercial products are petroleum based, which alone (like Vaseline, it's great on leather) works fine, but many of the petroleum based products also contain alcohol. It's a vicious cycle!

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